Melanie and I visited Bruges in August 2006 to co-incide with our 10th wedding anniversary. These are a few of our thoughts that future visitors to the city may find useful.

Introduction
Bruges is a medieval city in northern Belgium with a rich history spanning its time as the Spanish Netherlands and during French occupation right up to the present day as a place close to the heart of an ever expanding Europe.

The city has wonderful architecture unspoiled by modern developments. Even the Governor's residence in the ancient Market Square (Markt) built in 1910 is in keeping with the far older buildings that surround it. Indeed, the Markt is a good central point for exploring this unique location.

The currency in Belgium is the Euro. At the time of our visit there was about 69p to the Euro (making a Euro worth about £1.44). For those who don't know, there are 100 cents in a Euro.

After taking a South West Trains service from Bournemouth, we travelled to Belgium on the Eurostar from Waterloo International which (until it was replaced by St Pancras International in 2007) was basically a shed squeezed on to the side of Waterloo station in central London. The journey was two and a half hours (to Brussels Midi) after which we took a connecting train to Bruges (about 1 hour). Waterloo was very convenient for us and it would take us longer to get to the new Eurostar station, however it's certainly a hassle free way to travel and I'd do it again. It beats flying, in my opinion, hands down!

Accommodation
Of course, we can only comment on the hotel we stayed at but there is a good selection of hotels and hostels across the city all within easy reach of the centre (Centrum). Our choice, the Hotel Bryghia (pictured), is situated in a quiet location about 10 minutes walk from Markt. It has about 30 rooms, is family run and although the rooms are small they are comfortable. The best thing about the Bryghia is the wonderful breakfasts; you certainly won't go hungry from the selection of fruits, cereals, croissants, bread, meat, cheeses and eggs on offer.

Getting around
Bruges is small enough to walk around quite comfortably, unless this is against your principles in which case you may like to opt for one of the many buses that run frequently and cheaply. A ride from our Hotel to the railway station when we were leaving, for example, cost just €1 (about 70p) each, a journey that took us right across the city.

For organised sight-seeing there are 3 main choices. The City Tour buses that leave from Markt take you on a 50 minute excursion across the main sights of the city. This tour goes the furthest distance, taking you right out to the edges of the old city. You wear earphones to listen to commentary in your own language. This costs €11.50 (about £8). I can't comment on how good this trip is as we didn't do it.

Another option is to take one of the many boat trips on the canals that run throughout and around the city. These take about half an hour with a commentary (as such) from the driver. Of course, this depends very much on the quality of your guide. Ours reminded us of the Swedish Chef from The Muppets so I doubt we learned very much of interest, although a ride on the water is always pleasant. At just €5.70 (about £4 plus tip) this isn't going to break the bank.

Finally there is the option to take a horse and carriage (pictured). Although the most expensive option (€30, about £21 plus tip) it's also the most romantic and a special way to travel around the heart of this ancient city. We took this one evening (on our 10th wedding anniversary to be precise) and thoroughly enjoyed it. Obviously if there's a group of you then it works out much more cost effective. The route takes you round many of the cobbled streets of the city and takes about half an hour, including a 5 minute stop for the horse to have some well earned oats!

Other options to take to tour the city (although not taken up by us so we can't comment on them) are guided walking tours and cycling (either with or without a guide).

Places to visit
The Markt is a good central point to work out from when deciding what to visit in the city. In the square itself is The Belfort (pictured at night). This building has dominated the city for hundreds of years. It hasn't always looked like this having been rebuilt in whole or in part many times (the first in 1280 after being struck by lightning). You can climb the 366 steps to the bell tower and look out across the city and beyond, even seeing as far as Zeebrugge on the coast.

The tower's most striking attribute isn't, surprisingly, it's architecture but it's 47 bells that ring out every 15 minutes playing a tune. We were treated to everything from Mozart to Andrew Lloyd Webber. Some tunes are more recognisable than others, however this is a very pleasant way to, quite literally, pass the time.

On Monday, Wednesday and Friday evenings from 9-10pm (in the summer) visitors are treated to a concert when an organist "plays the bells"! It's a unique treat, and one not to be missed.

The city itself has cobbled streets and ancient buildings aplenty. There are churches of differing styles and histories as well as art galleries, museums and gardens. Plenty to see and do whatever the weather. Entry costs are, on the whole, very cheap indeed with a typical entry being just €2.50 (£1.75) and even then some of these tickets will get you into more than one attraction. Great value! Don't miss the most picturesque bridge in the city at St Bonifaciusbrug, Begijnhof (near the Minnewater) a huddle of white cottages owned by Nuns and surrounded by tall trees as well as the windmills (one of which is open to visitors) on the outskirts of the city.

Shops worth seeking out include the Tin Tin Shop on the Markt that sells items relating to the Belgian comic book character and The Bottle Shop on Wollestraat that has lots of Belgian beers (more about them in a moment). Belgium is famous for its chocolate and there are plenty of places to buy them as well as lace that has been an important industry in Bruges over the centuries. Watch out for the cheap imports when buying both of these items as both lace and chocolates have been made outside Belgium for most of these shops. The Chocolate Line in Simon Stevin Plein sells locally made, natural Belgian chocolates and for lace try either Apostelienje or Kantcentrum that both sell locally made lace (you can even go in and watch them making it at the latter location).

Eating out
Dining in Bruges won't be a problem! Around Markt alone there are more than 20 restaurants with many more dotted around the cobbled streets elsewhere in the city. Prices are similar to home and there are some very good value set menus. A typical 3 course dinner can be as cheap as €16 (£11) but for more options some of the mid-priced offerings can be better €25 (£17.50) is not an uncommon price.

If you're on a buget there are still plenty of options with main courses as low as €7 (£5) and if you don't mind visiting a non-authentic site then the Pizza Hut in Simon Stevin Plein does 2-course meal deals for just over a fiver (€7.75).

Mel enjoyed a Beef Stew (Flemish style) and also worth trying is the Chicken in pastry. Most restaurants (especially around Markt) have menus in English. Vegetarian options are available at many locations.

Drinking is also something you won't have trouble with in Bruges. As well as many wines, Belgium has over 600 beers. Kwak is unusual being served in a wooden "handle" (as the glass is a very strange shape). Although not a lager drinker, I particularly liked Duvel which at 8.5% is going to get the evening swinging in no time ;-)

Summary
Despite its location near the heart of European government in Brussels (a 1 hour train journey away) Bruges has remained virtually untouched architecturally. This is helped in no small part by the canal system that surrounds three quarters of the city within which you will find many cobbled streets and ancient buildings. Bruges is a terrific destination for anyone wanting an uncomplicated break for a few days to unwind and enjoy wonderful food, great architecture and almost limitless options for eating and drinking. What could possibly be better?

Andy and Melanie Clayton. September 2006.
(Amended May 2008 to update the text after the move of Eurostar from Waterloo to St Pancras)